busy 
Alright, so the response was enough to make me write up a pattern for the little doll I made. (Because little cousins always deserve fabulous presents) you’ll forgive me if I sound vague- I kinda made the doll up as I went along.
First, start out with 6 stitches of your flesh color.
Knit on circs until you reach an appropriate leg-length. (I do
14 or 15 rows)
Put leg on stitch markers (safety pins work well) and start
other leg the same way. I just use the
other loose end of my ball of yarn. This
is an easy time to stuff the legs.
When the second leg is done, put both legs onto your
circs. Most important is that the yarn
end that you want to use is actually available.
You can evenly distribute the stitches after the legs are already joined
if it becomes too difficult.
Continue knitting the torso.
As far as the unsightly gap between the legs goes, you should probably
sew it up after you’ve finished stuffing the legs. You should have around 11 rows of torso.
For the arms you can do one of two things. If you prefer to work with a four-stitch I-cord, it is possible to do the arms like that. But I find it makes for better arms to deal with four-stitch DPNs, even if it is a pain. Knit 15 rows on both arms.
Now here comes the fun part. We’re gong to add on the arms just like we did the legs, so the stitches should line up like this.
Make sure that when you start back up again, your stitches come out with their bumps on the right side. You may need to move the stitch with the workable thread to the other needle- I had to after I took the picture. Knit 4 rows to create the shoulders.
Now, fit all of your stitches onto two needles. (at this point in time, you may want to run a safety thread through the stitches on your needles. It can be cut out later.)
You should have 20 stitches, place 10 on each, one for the doll’s front and one for the doll’s back.
Now, we only want the neck to be eight stitches wide, so put all but the middle four of each needle onto your safety pins. As always, make sure that your working yarn is at the start of the neck. I had to knit four stitches to get mine there.
Spread the remaining eight stitches around three needles and knit three rows. Make sure to pull tightly to decrease the gap. This is your neck. Stuff everything beneath it.
Using M1, increase the number of stitches on each needle by one. Make sure to increase in the middle and not on the ends. You should have 4 stitches on two and 3 on the other. Knit this next row normally, then increase with M1 again to make 5 on two and 4 on the last. Do your best to space out the M1s- don’t want a holey head!
Knit normally for 3 more rows. On the fourth row, start the decreases the same way you did the M1s. If you have already designated a face, its usually good to keep away from decreasing in the middle of it- ignore it and just decrease more around it.
Here I kept one whole needle untouched (its basically all face stitches) and k2tog-d the other needles. I’ll move the edge-of-face stitches to other needles to more clearly define what not to decrease.
For the next 2 rows, decrease once on one needle and twice on the other, leaving your face needle free (it should have 4 stitches on it) by the end of the second row, you have seven stitches left.
Stuff the head.
Cut a sizable tail to your working yarn and thread it
through your stitches. Pull tightly and
revel at the results of your toil!
Now, for those shoulders. Take the long tail and thread it back through the head down to the shoulders. Here, do a crisscross stitch that goes up through one stitch, across the gap and up through another.
Pull tightly and pull through to the other shoulder. Repeat.
From here, you can adjust the neck, cut out the safety string, and sew up the gaps beneath the shoulders and between the legs. No knots are necessary, just thread the loose ends into the body.
You’re finished!
